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The Shalvar or Persian Pantaloon

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In Harold Keshishian's Textile Rug Morning The Persian Collection HK showed us fragments that are from a Persian woman's pantaloons that were made into pillows.

When we use Pantaloon in this context we are referring to a garment that are called Shalvar (also Shalwar, salwar, salvar). It is a pair of loose fitting pants worn (typically) over underpants and extending roughly from navel to ankle. A shalvar would be worn with a Pirihan or Kemiz (chemise) a loose fitting undershirt. Take a look at this Shalvar Pattern for an idea of design

Getting a picture to illustrate Persian Women's undergarments is no simple task. However I found one that may be a little help. In Princely Lovers, Attributed to Mirza Ali, Qazvin circa 1544, the princess on the right shows just a hint of Shalvar above her slippers and below her coat.

She is wearing a ceremonial over coat over a long coat. Under that would be the Pirihan or Kemiz. It is from the word Kemiz that we get the word chemise. The Pirihan is worn over the Shalvar and we can see the edge of the shalvar at the ankle.

I found this image in "Majnum Comes Before Layla Disguised As A Sheep". By the looks of this there are three layers of clothes on top of the Shalvar.

There is a question as to whether there was a further undergarment under the shalvar. Some argue that the extravagance of many of the shalvar indicates that underpants must have been worn. That certainly seems logical but there is no real evidence, only supposition. It somehow reminds me of a young woman I knew in college who wore dry clean only cashmere panties. But that is another story.

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More Oriental Rug Notes by Barry O'Connell

The Shalvar or Persian Pantaloon