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Antique Indian Rugs
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I like Hawley
on Antique
Oriental Rugs but to bring it uo to date I am annotating it:
Indian RugsFromOriental Rugs: Antique and ModernBy Walter Augustus HawleyThroughout parts of India are
woven rugs known
as Dari, which are unlike
the rugs of
any other country. They are pileless
cotton fabrics, that may represent an indigenous craft old as the Aryan
migrations. Their designs are of the simplest order; usually no more
than plain
stripes of blue, red, and black, or only blue and white modified
occasionally
by simple geometric figures. Furthermore, their workmanship is poor, so
that
they possess little artistic merit. Some pieces of large size are
exported, but
they awaken but little interest compared with other kinds of rugs.
The weaving of pile carpets in
India, on the other hand, does not appear to have been the result of
spontaneous growth or to have flourished without artificial
encouragement. It
was probably introduced by the Saracens, but carpets of elaborate
design and
workmanship were not made till the reign of Shah
Akbar, who imported
Persian
weavers. Under his patronage and the encouragement of his royal
successors, the
manufacture of pieces that rivaled those of Persia continued for a
hundred
years, but after the death of Shah Jahan,
in 1658, the industry began
to
decline. Nevertheless, for nearly a hundred years longer excellent
fabrics were
produced as the result of the system that was maintained in all the
provinces
by lesser potentates. This system, which was also in vogue in parts of
Persia, is
described by Dr. George Birdwood as follows: "The princes and great
nobles
and wealthy gentry, who are the chief patrons of these grand fabrics,
collect
together in their own houses and palaces all who gain a reputation for
special
skill in their manufacture. These men receive a fixed salary and daily
rations
and are so little hurried in their work that they have plenty of time
to
execute private orders also. Their salaries are continued even when
through age
or accident they are past work; and on their death they
pass to their sons, should they have become skilled in their father's
art. Upon
the completion of any extraordinary work, it is submitted to the
patron; and
some honour is at once conferred on the artist and his salary
increased. It is
under such conditions that the best art work of the East has always
been
produced."
JBOC:
Today it is not politically correct to use the term Saracen. We now
just call
them Muslims. Saracen comes from the Latin Sarakene which was a word
they used
to describe non-Arab middle rasterners. After the Roman period it was
applied
to Muslims and in particular to Arabs. Hawley seems a bit tepid in his
prise of
Mughal carpets which in my opinion rivaled the best rugs ever woven.
After the
overthrow of the Mogul dominion by Nadir
Shah, in
1731, the production of carpets rapidly diminished and the quality
deteriorated. This was due to several causes. With the conquests of the
East Indian Company,
that began in the middle of the XVIII
Century, and the extension of trade into every district, large
quantities of
antique carpets became the property of the Company or of those in its
employ.
Many of them, including sumptuous pieces that had adorned the palaces
of the
descendants of Tamerlane, found their way to England. Thus were removed
many of
the masterpieces that had been an inspiration to the weavers. Moreover,
with
the overthrow of native princes their patronage ceased; and later, when
looms
were established in jails for the employment of convicts, undesirable
competition reduced the wages of free labour. Still more pernicious was
the
introduction of aniline dyes, and the elimination of individual taste
by
supplying patterns, that were often of European origin, to be
mechanically
copied. Thus it followed that, in spite of the efforts of Mr. Robinson
and of
others, for nearly half a century, to resuscitate the art and restore
it to its
former condition, weaving in India, to-day, rests purely on a
commercial basis;
and the workmanship is almost as mechanical as the manufacture of
machine-made
carpets in Europe or America.
JBOC: It is convienient to blame Nadir
Shah
but trade and world economics may have played a greater role. The
Indian carpet
business was production for export. As long as the caravan rouies were
viable
the Armenian merchants did brisk
trade
in carpets. Once they lost their competitive edge in the shifting
markets
quality plummeted as the Beitish focused on rugs from elsewhere.
Yet to the cloud hanging over the weaving of India is a brighter lining. European companies have established factories where natives are employed making rugs that in quality equal the products of Smyrna and Sultanabad. Some of them, indeed, are even more firmly woven than the Persian products from which they are copied. In many of the towns, also, are looms where the weavers, who are mostly boys, enjoy more independence. Moreover, the companies, realizing that the future of their business depends on the quality of the fabrics, are largely discarding aniline dyes. It is now possible, therefore, to obtain Indian rugs of excellent workmanship and colours at very moderate prices; but individuality, representative of native character and temperament, is entirely lacking; and in its place is simply a reproduction of Persian or European patterns. JBOC: Hawley
compared rugs of India to those of Smyrna. It is apt since Smyrna was a
center
of production for the British trade. Anglo-indian rugs as they are
called share
many of the strengths and weaknesses of the Smyrna rugs since they were
offen
trade by the same companies.
Any arrangement of these rugs in subgroups must be arbitrary, as similar conditions of early foreign influence, royal patronage, and the jail and factory systems, have prevailed throughout India. Yet since the northern part has been more directly under the influence of the courts and more intimately connected with Herat, which seems to have left a strong impress on the weavings of all the surrounding country, it is convenient to make a distinction between the rugs of Northern and Southern India. The principal rug-producing
centres of Northern India at present are Srinagar, Amristar,
Lahore,
Multan,
Allahabad, Agra,
Mirzapur, Sindh, Jubbulpur, and Jaipur.
Srinagar. —
From
the extreme northern part of India come the rugs of
Kashmir, which are often named after the capital of the province,
Srinagar, the
"City of the Sun." To a large extent, they resemble the far more
famous shawls that were woven in the central valley, where winds the
Jhelum,
that some believe first suggested the pear design. The pieces woven
before the
British occupation of India were of excellent quality and contained
delicate
colour schemes, that were exceedingly pleasing; but the products of the
last
half century show deterioration. The colours are harsher, the
mechanical
drawing of the patterns show European influence, and the borders
resemble too
closely the central field to have distinct characters. Yet many of them
are now
dyed with vegetable colours, and are stoutly woven with the soft and
silky wool
for which this district is renowned.
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