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Antique Kaitag Embroidery


Antique  Embroideries of the Kaitag People


The Kaitag are a small Northern Caucasian ethnic group numbering about 8,000 people. They live in the mountains of Southern Dagestan. Ethnographers usually place the Kaitag in the Dargin group but there is debate over whether Kaitag is a dialect of Dargwa the language of the Dargin people or if it is a separate Northern Caucasian language. The Dargin only amount to a total of 510,000 people of which the Kaitag amount to no more that 5 or 10 thousand people. Kaitag is also a small district in the mountainous south of Dagestan and is a historically remote area. The people are Sunni and Shia Muslim but there are still vestiges of the pre-Islamic belief system remaining as local folk customs.

Some mythologists see “Byzantine, Fatimid, Mongolian, Timurid, Mamluk, Chinese, Ottoman and Celtic’ influences in Kaitag embroidery. That strikes this writer as farfetched. While I freely admit that some of these groups did have interaction with the region and that the Mamluk drew slaves out of the region but to suggest a correlation is as likely as seeing designs in the clouds and thinking that anything other than chance influenced them. Still I have to note that this notion comes from www.textile-art.com by Michael Frances a textile dealer who was involved in the questionable “Mother Goddess in Anatolia” controversy of years gone by.
The Kaitag are a part of the Northern Caucasian people. There are 39 distinct ethnic and language groups in the Northern Caucasian group. They have no known history before coming to the Caucasus and their origins are lost in the mists of time. In the 13th century the IL-Khanid Mongols drove north taking in all of the Greater and Lesser Caucasian Mountains. This put Kaitag into the Persian sphere of trade and influence until captured by the Czarist Russians in the 18th century. Still the sway of the Persians and the Turks was very tenuous in the Greater Caucasus and these people maintained relative independence. It was only in the mid 1800 when the Russians cut the forests and built roads that any great amount of influence or control could be exerted by outside forces. By the end of Shamil’s revolt August 25, 1859 the Russians had a firm hold on the region.
 
The technique of Kaitag embroidery is couched needlework on a backing that is usually both cotton and rectangular. Heavy silk thread is sewn to the face in straight lines so that almost all of the thread is on the front and very little is visible from the back. Then the silk is couched or tacked down to hold it in place by opposing silk threads spaced at regular intervals. As such the embroidery is completely decorative and not a wear surface at all. With this constution we must assume that these were meant as decoration and most likely as a decorative cover.
Silk was an important source of income in this region. A woman could make enough income in sericulture that rug weaveing is rather scarce.

These pieces were embroidered by hand by women for the important events of their lives such as betrothal,arriage, birth and death.
 because the surface has little ability to resist wear I suspect that these were special use objects. By that i mean thet I doubt they were in daily use for most people and were brought out for significant occasions.
Antique Kaitag Embroidery
Antique Kaitag Embroidery

Antique Kaitag Embroidery
Antique Kaitag Embroidery






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